Maison Martin Margiela
Martin Margiela (born April 9, 1957 in Genk, Belgium) is a Belgian fashion designer. He graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts (Antwerp) in 1979, a year before the Avant-garde fashion collective the Antwerp Six.
After graduation he worked as a freelance designer for five years. Between 1985 and 1987 he worked for Jean Paul Gaultier, before showing his first collection under his own label, which he started with his business partner Jenny Meirens in 1989. Between 1997 to 2003 he was the creative director of the Hermès women's line.
During the 1980s, the Japanese avantgardists, with Rei Kawakubo—creator of the label Comme des Garçons—had turned the fashion scene upside-down with their eccentric and ground-breaking designs. Martin Margiela and the Antwerp Six would carry on the work, revolting against the luxurious fashion world with garments of oversized proportions such as long arms, and with linings, seams and hems on the outside. The concept of deconstruction (also embraced by Kawakubo) is important for the understanding of Margiela's fashion statement. Margiela famously redesigns by hand objects such as old wigs, canvases and silk scarves into couture garments.
Throughout his career, Margiela has maintained a low personal profile. He has never had his picture taken and remains backstage after his shows. All media contact is dealt with via fax. Maison Martin Margiela's ultradiscreet trademark consists of a piece of cloth with the numbers 0-23. The badge is attached to the inside with four small, white, pick stitches, exposed to the outside on unlined garments. For the 20th anniversary the anonymous tag was replaced by a classic logotype.
Margiela's brand was acquired by the OTB Group in 2002 and industry insiders were quoted as suggesting that Margiela may desire to leave due to creative differences, or simply, "A desire to enjoy his life outside the insistent glare of the fashion world."
Margiela is best known for his deconstructive clothing, where the marks of his craft - the stitches and seams - are revealed rather than concealed. In being so they display a physical sense of the designer in the construction of the garment and in particular the mark of Margiela's own hand animated on the body.
The spirit of this approach may be seen in the presentation of the A/W 1998-99 collection produced with artist Mark Bothwick and stylist Jane How. How commissioned ten life-size wooden puppets to be dressed in garments from the collection before their animation, by puppeteers, down a staged catwalk. The use of the marionettes in the presentation of the clothes was intimately linked to their construction ; the clothes, predominantly T-shirt dresses, had been folded and then heat-bonded to polythene vinyl so that when put on, the neckline and natural fall of the T-shirt material were displaced.
Seeing the collection photographically documented in the pages of a catwalk report magazine such as L'Official, it purposefully jars with the presentation of the human fashion model as the adeal figure striking a pose at the end of the runway.
-Radical Fashion, Claire Wilcox-
mark borthwick for maison martin margiela autumn/winter 1998
Dazed & Confused January 1999 Maison Martin Margiela by Terry Richardson
exhibition at the museum boijmans van beuningen, rotterdam, 1997
The first solo exchibition by Maison Martin Margiela (1997). Presenting 18 outfits, treated with different strains of bacteria, yeast and mold, all isolated from the air. After their gestation different colors and shapes appeared in the surface of the garments. Denoting the signs of the passage of time.
Maison Martin Margiela for View on Colour. 04/02/1998
What is colour?
An intensity, a temperature, a clash, a harmony.
And How do you use it?
When it asks.
What is black?
An absence, a presence, a mood, a mantle.
What is red?
A blush, a flush, a fever, a command.
What is skin?
What is fabric?
What is texture?
A result of time.
What is construction?
A means to an end.
What is function?
A reply to a need.
What is art?
A need to reply.
What is craftmanship?
A fruit of time.
What is clothing?
The final layer.
What is fashion?
A series of propositions.
What is recycling?
How does recycling fit into your work?
How does a concept develop at maison martin margiela?
Time, a question, a reply.
How does a concept develop at Hermes?
Time, another question, another reply.
What would you like to develop? Besides clothing?
What words do you live by?
in Comme des Garcons
Comme Des Garcons: "Body meet dress, dress meet body" S/S 1997
Comme des Garcon 2014 collection