Collection: Lauren Hunter

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Tags: england, femininity, girlhood, mine, molly goddard, nostalgia, subversion

Molly Goddard - Portrait

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Molly Goddard, named one of NEWGEN's designers to watch in 2014, is a recent graduate of Central St Martins MA Fashion Knit program. She is a West London native and continues to produce all of her clothing in Notting Hill. Her work touches on themes of nostalgia, special occasions, and coming of age. Some of her largest sources of inspiration are Sunday Best and fancy dress, both because of their vast history and inherent stiffness that she likes to turn on their heads. Her techniques of making are both delicate and fragile, and she implements complex techniques such as smocking, hand-pleating, and crocheting to create intricate and visually compelling garments that distinguish her from her peers. 

Here Molly is pictured backstage at her SS16 presentation wearing one of her own designs.

NY Times,. Molly Goddard - Backstage SS16. 2015. Web. 6 Oct. 2016.

 

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10 things you need to know about molly goddard

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This article from i-D details some interesting little facts about Molly and gives some insight into her persona. For example, she's a born and bred West London girl and her favourite Spice Girl is Ginger because "duh."

 

Dunn, Francesca. "10 Things You Need To Know About Molly Goddard". i-D Magazine(2016): n. pag. Print.

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Ambivalently Yours - Feminist Illustrator

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Ambivalently Yours is anonymous feminist artist that has gained notoriety through her Tumblr page that is filled with "hand-written notes of self-expression to disperse in public places and breaking the binaries of what is expected of a female today." (Dazed Magazine, 2015) Since the inception of her blog in 2012, the creation of her illustrations, with their scattering of honest thoughts, life perils and questions, the anonymous artist creates an online space where conflicting feelings are confronted and reevaluated – she's dead serious but sprinkles them with a good dose of tongue-in-cheek humour. Using her work to highlight the messiness and imperfections of being female, she creates an avenue for ‘boldly undecided girls’ to celebrate their contradictions. 

I thought her work was particularly poignant and relevant not only because of the obvious aesthetic similarities between her work and Molly's, but because of the similarity in the message they send to their audience with their work. They both love to subvert the idea of what a woman needs to be and do so in a modern and incredibly elevated way. I love this piece in particular because the subject reminds me of someone that Molly would be inspired by.

Yours, Ambivalently. "It's Not My Revolution If I Can't Wear Pink". http://ambivalentlyyours.tumblr.com/, 2011. Print.

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Molly Goddard - Autumn / Winter 2016 Panel Discussion: SHOWstudio

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In this panel, Lou Stoppard, Sonnet Stanfill, Bertie Brandes, Rosanna Falconer and Marta Represa discuss Molly Goddard’s Autumn/Winter 2016 womenswear show. They discuss the historical relevance and significance of her work and what makes her so unique in the industry today, and most notably discuss her unconventional approach to her presentations. 

This panel was extremely helpful in directing my research and in gaining a larger understanding of the philosophy behind Molly's garments.

Stoppard, Lou. "Molly Goddard - Autumn / Winter 2016 Panel Discussion". YouTube. N.p., 2016. Web. 6 Oct. 2016.

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Sunday Best - Sydney and Vera - 1918

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This is an image of two Edwardian children in their Sunday best.

 

National Archives,. Sunday Best Here In A Photograph Dated About 1918. 1918. Web. 6 Oct. 2016.

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BABYGIRL

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A found image from tumblr. Reminded me of Molly's aesthetic.

anonymous,. Babygirl. 2016. Web. 6 Oct. 2016.

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Funny Face - "Think Pink" - 1957

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This is a screen grab from a scene in the 1957 film "Funny Face" starring Audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire. This particular image is from the "Think Pink!" song in the film, where the editor in chief of the magazine makes a convincing argument why it is a necessity for a woman to wear pink. The entire video reminded me of the grandeur and elegance of Molly's designs, and the timelessness they carry.

Donen, Stanley. "Think Pink!" Song From Funny Face. 1957. Web. 6 Oct. 2016.

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Molly Goddard - AW16

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An image from Molly's AW16 presentation. I love the etherial quality of the garment here.

Goddard, Molly. Molly Goddard Presentation AW16. 2015. Web. 6 Oct. 2016.

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Melanie Martinez - Dollhouse

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This is a screenshot from the music video for "Dollhouse" by Melanie Martinez. It was the first single from her debut album "Crybaby," and much of the artwork surrounding this album fell into a twisted baby kind of realm. This song in particular deals with the pressures of trying to live up to an unattainable ideal of perfection and the things that happen behind closed doors that no one likes to discuss.

Steamyinthecity Music Collective,. Melanie Martinez - Dollhouse. 2014. Web. 6 Oct. 2016.

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Rihanna walking in Molly in NYC

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"If Rihanna wants to wear something within hours of it debuting on the catwalks in Milan and Paris, she can. The singer is the face of Dior, has a collaboration with Manolo Blahnik and has relationships with every major designer. But the singer also uses her huge star power to spotlight the work of a number of emerging British designers, likely aware of the huge impact she can have on under-the-radar labels. 

"Rihanna bought the dress from Browns in London," Goddard tells The Telegraph. "With so many endorsements and loans it’s great to know she bought it - that shows real support.'"

 

Spedding, Emma. "Rihanna Puts The Spotlight On 27-Year-Old British Designer Molly Goddard Wearing Her £1,250 Prom Dress". The Telegraph. N.p., 2016. Web. 10 Nov. 2016.  

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Rihanna - Paris Fashion Week SS17 - Ella Boucht Coat

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The volume and extravagence of the coat reminded me so much of Molly's designs! Love the use of the fabric and play with scale.

Elle Magazine,. Rihanna PFW SS17 Ella Boucht Coat. 2016. Web. 7 Oct. 2016.

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Smocking Technique - Miu Miu SS12

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"The basic aesthetic of smocking may look familiar for its application on babies garments or on the traditional workers smocks that were the original application of the technique. Smocking would have been most important at a time before elastic, to allow fabric to be gathered and fitted around necklines and cuffs.

The process for smocking is based on a grid formation that is usually marked first on the fabric with small dots. These are then joined together with a loose running stitch and pulled to create tubes of regular gathers in the fabric. From there the true design takes place as the shape of the smocking design is sewn using small back stitches to create horizontal lines, or diamond shapes. Once the original running stitches are removed fabric in the gaps between the stitching will open out, whilst the stitched fabric will retain the shape of the design." 

 

"Smocking Techniques At Miu Miu - The Cutting Class". The Cutting Class. N.p., 2016. Web. 2 Nov. 2016.

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Molly's Instagram: AW16 Campaign

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Molly Goddard SS17 Street Campaign outside Madame JoJos club in Soho.

I love the unconventional nature of this campaign. Upon first glance, it looks like an advertisement for an album, but upon closer inspection you notice her name carefully inlaid into the shocking pink that is so closely associated with her brand. She loves making a statement with colour and did not shy away from that here whatsoever. I love that the image itself is rather punk in nature with its strong contrast and unconventional cropping.

Instagram,. 2016. Web. 10 Oct. 2016.

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Maurio Anzeri

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This is a piece by Maurizio Anzeri whose work centres around implementing various embroidery techniques onto different photographic surfaces. We were shown his work in our lecture, but I really wanted to investigate more into his practice because I just recently started embroidery myself. 

 

Anzeri, Maurizio. Enrico. London: Saatchi Gallery, 2014. Print.

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The Isaac Mizrahi Pictures: New York City 1989-1993

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This is an image from the book "The Isaac Mizrahi Pictures: New York City 1989-1993," a photographic retrospective done by the photograper Nick Waplington. This image in particular stood out to me not only because of the obvious connection to Molly's work through the use of textile, but also because of its outstanding candid composition. Molly recently featured some of Nick's photographs in her SS17 collection, and so I thought it fitting to investigate his work a bit further.

 

Waplington, Nick. The Isaac Mizrahi Pictures. New York City 1989-1993. 1st ed. Bologna, Italy: Damiani Editore, 2015. Print.

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Miss Lily Elsie

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Lily Elsie (April 8, 1886 – December 16, 1962) was a popular English actress and singer during the Edwardian era. In 1920, Elsie moved with her husband to the Gloucestershire village of Redmarley D'Abitot, spending ten more years away from the stage, which she had always found stressful, and enjoying social events and fox hunting. She returned to theatre & her last show before retiring was Ivor Novello's successful The Truth Game back at Daly's Theatre in 1928–1929.

I was so inspired by Elsie's photographs that I will be using them as the basis for my photographs that I will be doing later on for my final project to emulate the Edwardian era.

 

"Hey Pretty Lady: Lily Elsie - Blush And Jelly". Blush and Jelly. N.p., 2016. Web. 12 Nov. 2016.

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