Collection: PART ONE

Jacket Project

Description

The term deconstruction has been used to describe the rebellion against traditional forms in art. Amy Spindler announced the trend as a rebellion against fashion's heritage. Elements of deconstruction include vintage linings sewn on the outside of clothes, exposed zippers and seams. Basically, the garments call attention to the mechanics of production, they strip away the aesthetic illusion associated with clothes to reveal the forms of construction that lay beneath. However, the major problem with this theory is that in deconstructing fashion, you are creating a new fashion.

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Original Jacket

The original blazer details:

-Gaberdine? Strong warp and weft yarns

-Womens

-Pin stripe

-Pockets

-Buttons

-Darts

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Process

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An example of shredding 

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Modified Jacket

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This is my completed garment

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Bilography Referencing

Viktor & Rolf 1993-1999

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Photograph 1998// Devon

Photo//Inez van Lamsweerde & Vindoodh Matadni

Hair//Luigi Murenu

Makeup//James Kalliardos

Styling//Arianne Phillips

The manipulation of fabric really inspired me as it is super simple yet effective. The fabric choice would've allowed them to create anything but the fact that they just made slight twists and tucks brings the beauty out of the fabric allowing it to catch light; good for photographing.

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Catalogue 05 1996//Vivian 

Photo//Wendelin Dean

Concept//Viktor & Rolf

A really simple way of deconstruction and a variation in placement of shapes. The funnel neck collar creates a beautifully sculptural and geometrical shape with the centre pieces of the blazer.

 

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Video stills 09 1998// Shown in Paris

Concept//Viktor & Rolf

These video stills show how the blazer can move and how the deconstruction allowed them to create shaped that are practical.I really like the ruching of the fabric.

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Photograph 1998// Lida

Photo//Inez van Lamsweerde & Vindoodh Matadni

Hair//Eugene Souleiman

Makeup//Lisa Butler

Styling//Nancy Rohde

I was really inspired by this image as I like how it references towards our project and the process of deconstruction. The concept of have a perfectly tailor made blazer and breaking it down into separate piece in order to create something avant garde really fascinates me.

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Video stills 1998// Shown in Paris

Concept//Viktor & Rolf

I really liked this piece as the ruching executed so well and the choice of fabric makes is visually textual. The ruching is created in a sphere shape to enclosed the models neck which is aesthetically pleasing.

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Photograph 1997// Missy

Photo//Inez van Lamsweerde & Vindoodh Matadni

Hair//Eugene Soulieman

Makeup//Lisa Butler

Styling//Viktor & Rolf

The manipulation of fabric really inspired as its big and sculptural. The focus is mainly on the shoulders which frame the models face. The image is highly textual as well with juxtaposition between the fabric choice and sheen and gloss of the models makeup. 

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Rebecca Horn Body Landscapes

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Series//Einhorn

Date//1970–2

Medium//wood, fabric and metal

Collection//Tate

The body-extensions, she explores the equilibrium between body and space. In later works she replaces the human body with kinetic sculptures which take on their own life, this notion also expresses an element of deconstruction.

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Own References

Ssense

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Ssense show how there are multiple variations of the classic blazer. Noting their approach to layering as it is very simple but executed meticulously. Personally I really enjoy the aesthetics of focusing the detail in the fabric manipulation rather then adding heavy embroidery or beading. The focal points all spread out from the collar with different centre lines allowing for the front pieces to be highly sculptural and architectural.

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Veli Ani

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Singaporean fashion designer Veli Ami mentions in her blog "Using observation and analysis of surrealist paintings and films to bring out a bizarre subtext and a sense of mysticism, I aim to create a vision of contemporary mystic urban style. The creative process often begins with a collage – an automatic way of juxtaposing bizarre elements and of deconstructing a visual and assembling them together with parts of identifiable garments. A collage can result in a visual idea of a ‘melting’ trench coat with gas masks placed on the breasts to recreate a witty form out of the serious traditional trench coat" I found this very interesting and relevant to the project of deconstruction. Personally I find her designs very pleasing aesthetically, the layering and manipulation really inspire me in what I would like to create one day.

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Zoe Davidson

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This ring designed by Zoe Davidson really caught me attention as it's highly sculptural and I just imagined the whole process she would have had to go through to actually execute this piece. The perfect carved raised circle juxtaposes with the bulky yet delicate ring. Zoe Davidson has a true understanding of balance, shape and texture with this ring making it very successful in my eyes.

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Summary

Concluding this project I felt confident with what I had created because I stayed true to my aesthetic but I adopted techniques I would never usually use. This project was quite similar to the white shirt task but I felt this was much better as we were working on our own individual piece. It's good working in groups it really pushes me out of my comfort zone to adapt and work with other aesthetics but this project allowed me to really try and develop ideas organically.

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